Best Twin City Skate Sharpener
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 3:18 pm
Ok who's the best?
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AGREED! Add 'em to the list.Neutron 14 wrote:Strauss
It's just down the road from where I work so I had them do it once... some pimply faced dork took about 15 seconds on each skate and managed to grind my left blade into something that felt like a 45 degree angle... I had no inside edge.breakout wrote:Hockey Giant provides free skate sharpening to those that purchase their skates from them. Get what you pay for? Thus far, the poll seems to agree.
Can't say I am stunned by your experience.Govs93 wrote:It's just down the road from where I work so I had them do it once... some pimply faced dork took about 15 seconds on each skate and managed to grind my left blade into something that felt like a 45 degree angle... I had no inside edge.breakout wrote:Hockey Giant provides free skate sharpening to those that purchase their skates from them. Get what you pay for? Thus far, the poll seems to agree.
I skated 2 practices and took them back Strauss.
Can't Never Tried wrote:This is a good topic.....
Knowing a bit about this subject I'll share some insight.
1st it's not so much where you get your skates done it's who's behind the machine and their knowledge of the principles.
The first consideration is the rocker of the blade..this is is determined by the size and style of skater, a smaller light weight agile skater should have a smaller rocker say 11' rocker where as a heavier 6' + tall skater should be closer to the 12'- 13' mark rocker...this is all determined by radial push from the hips to keep maximum contact with the ice thru the stride.
Next is the blade radius this also has a bit to do with size but again more to do with position they play...a smaller size fwd. player that makes a lot of aggressive moves can utilize a deeper radius say as small as 1/4" to 3/8" but will give up speed for the agility.
A defensive player that's more concerned with being able to adjust quickly will also use a smaller radius as speed is not as important as making the quick adjustments to the on coming fwd's.
A bigger fwd. player that needs flat out speed will go as high as 3/4"-1" radius.... they give up the hard cuts for the breakaway speed.
The centering of the radius is probably the most important factor, there should be no more then .002" difference between the the high points on either side of the blade...very few places I've seen actually have a gage to measure this.
After all the above is completed the last factor is the honing of the edges this should be done both before and after the skate is sharpened...the before removes any side nicks in the blade and allows for a very easy job of removing the sharpening burrs after sharpening.
If the place you get your skates done does all this you have found the sweet heart of skate sharpening... best of luck..but get what your paying for....
Oh Wise guy huh ??Neutron 14 wrote:Can't Never Tried wrote:This is a good topic.....
Knowing a bit about this subject I'll share some insight.
1st it's not so much where you get your skates done it's who's behind the machine and their knowledge of the principles.
The first consideration is the rocker of the blade..this is is determined by the size and style of skater, a smaller light weight agile skater should have a smaller rocker say 11' rocker where as a heavier 6' + tall skater should be closer to the 12'- 13' mark rocker...this is all determined by radial push from the hips to keep maximum contact with the ice thru the stride.
Next is the blade radius this also has a bit to do with size but again more to do with position they play...a smaller size fwd. player that makes a lot of aggressive moves can utilize a deeper radius say as small as 1/4" to 3/8" but will give up speed for the agility.
A defensive player that's more concerned with being able to adjust quickly will also use a smaller radius as speed is not as important as making the quick adjustments to the on coming fwd's.
A bigger fwd. player that needs flat out speed will go as high as 3/4"-1" radius.... they give up the hard cuts for the breakaway speed.
The centering of the radius is probably the most important factor, there should be no more then .002" difference between the the high points on either side of the blade...very few places I've seen actually have a gage to measure this.
After all the above is completed the last factor is the honing of the edges this should be done both before and after the skate is sharpened...the before removes any side nicks in the blade and allows for a very easy job of removing the sharpening burrs after sharpening.
If the place you get your skates done does all this you have found the sweet heart of skate sharpening... best of luck..but get what your paying for....
what about boyer blades??? He seems to know what is going on?Neutron 14 wrote:Can't Never Tried wrote:This is a good topic.....
Knowing a bit about this subject I'll share some insight.
1st it's not so much where you get your skates done it's who's behind the machine and their knowledge of the principles.
The first consideration is the rocker of the blade..this is is determined by the size and style of skater, a smaller light weight agile skater should have a smaller rocker say 11' rocker where as a heavier 6' + tall skater should be closer to the 12'- 13' mark rocker...this is all determined by radial push from the hips to keep maximum contact with the ice thru the stride.
Next is the blade radius this also has a bit to do with size but again more to do with position they play...a smaller size fwd. player that makes a lot of aggressive moves can utilize a deeper radius say as small as 1/4" to 3/8" but will give up speed for the agility.
A defensive player that's more concerned with being able to adjust quickly will also use a smaller radius as speed is not as important as making the quick adjustments to the on coming fwd's.
A bigger fwd. player that needs flat out speed will go as high as 3/4"-1" radius.... they give up the hard cuts for the breakaway speed.
The centering of the radius is probably the most important factor, there should be no more then .002" difference between the the high points on either side of the blade...very few places I've seen actually have a gage to measure this.
After all the above is completed the last factor is the honing of the edges this should be done both before and after the skate is sharpened...the before removes any side nicks in the blade and allows for a very easy job of removing the sharpening burrs after sharpening.
If the place you get your skates done does all this you have found the sweet heart of skate sharpening... best of luck..but get what your paying for....
I bought my skates there a few years back and they sharpened them before I left... but they hurt my feet and my back so damn bad the first couple of times I skated on them, I didn't really pay attention to the sharpening job. So, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and say they did a great job!SEC Scotty wrote:Cunningham Sports does a good job.